9/11/09

August 28 - Namib-Naukluft National Park, Namibia



Our plan was to head into the Namib-Naukluft National Park which requires permits and preparation as the camping has no facilities. We drove for most of the day in the park and saw…nobody. Our camping reservation was for a site called Homeb. We got there in the mid afternoon and except for a couple of shacks and locals living not far from the camp site (presumably caretakers) there was nobody around. Oh, and there were flies. Seems if we stop anywhere in the heat of the day our first greeting is from the flies. Solitude is alluring, but you have to go with your gut whether or not it feels comfortable. None of us felt the urge to stay at Homeb (and we generally take a poll in these situations) so we pressed on to find the camp ground at Kusieb Bridge, another 60 km or so.

We had the road completely to ourselves again for the afternoon until we stopped at what we thought was Kusieb Bridge. Finally another vehicle, out of which came a young German couple looking for the camp site too. The only problem was, we could not see any sign of a camp site. Taking note of the sun hanging low in the sky (and any other options not within reasonable distance) we decided to head back 5 km to the picnic site we knew was just off the road. We drove for another 3 km or so off the main road and finally came to the picnic site just as the sun was setting. It was magnificent. Except for our new friends (who decided to stick with us rather than camp under the bridge) we knew there was nobody for miles, and the picnic site was right on the edge of the Kusieb Canyon. We were surrounded by views of mountains in one direction as the backdrop for the canyon and endless fields of straw coloured grass in every other direction. We shared a fire and the spectacular view with Alex & Laura and our prize was the most beautiful sunrise we have ever seen, anywhere. It was really great to take a stab at wild camping, although the girls were a little nervous (fortunately we didn’t find the “No Overnight & No Fires” sign until morning) but I think we all loved it in the end.

On our way out of the park the next day we stopped again at the Kusieb Bridge and drove down into the river bed and under the bridge. We had heard you could maybe find water pools in the river bed so we walked up until we found one. OK, so “pool” is a bit of an exaggeration. But it was water (although pretty sandy) and apparently fresh. Ron was the only one of us inspired to strip down and jump in (can’t wait for the photos can you?). Once back out, obviously feeling invigorated from the experience, buck naked, he threw his arms in the air and yelled (in a sort of King of the World moment) “I am Jesus, I am REBORN and I do not need clothes!” He opened his eyes and said “Oh geeze, there are two people up there!” It was a canyon, but it sure wasn’t The Grand Canyon so there is no doubt the couple peering down on us heard and saw everything.

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