July 18-21 Nairobi - Arusha

Life seems to have slowed down to "travel mode" with a slow and easy pace. At the same time, it has sped up to lightening speed as each new minute brings a new site, smell and feel. Sadie & Anna have embraced travel with wide eyes, a new display of flexibility and appear to be up for the challenge - Phew. But, this is only day 5. We did have our first night of goodsleep last night as our jet lag seems to be fading. A good night sleep is like putting on a new pair of rose coloured lenses.

Before leaving Nairobi we decided to check out the local scene. After reading for the first time (probably good Janetdidn't know this in advance) that Nairobi rivals Johanasburg for crime we headed downtown on the local bus. But first we were reassured the dangers lie mostly after dark and advised which bues to climb aboard. The Motutu's are small privately run vans and clearly the competition is stiff as they rival for passengers. We took the larger and more safe City Hopper (yes really)which took us quickly into downtown. Downtown is much like any downtown, busy and generic. There was the occasional building left from the British Colony days but mostly they have been replaced by non descript architecture. The exciting part for sure was getting there and back. Our trip back was not as successful with less than 1 km in more than 30 min. So? What do 4 white folks do when they still have a little North American impatience left in their system? They hop off and walk. The polution from cars is choking but it was still nice to get the legs moving and we were home in 15 min.

Our trip from Nairobi to Arusha was incredible. We had received advance warning to head off with empty bladders and our own snacks packed. Good advice. The trip was a total of about 7 hours on a small van style bus including a fairly uneventful border crossing andvisa purchase (and only one pee break). Before long we were spotting the likes of zebras, camels and hundreds of very skinny cows and goats. We were awarded to the site of about 7 giraffes near the end of our journey. The road was CRAZY. Bumpy, contantly interrupted with detours on to dirt sections (at moc speed) and the most amazing scenery scrolling by our windows. Once we got out of the city and through the industy secion of town we seemed to be in the most forbidding county I have ever seen. I can not imagine how the people can squeeze one day of life out of the land. The drought combined with non sustainable use of the land is devastating. As I lookedout the window I tried to figure out how to describde how dry it looked. Not dry, parched. No not parched, barren. Mmmm., maybe moonscape would work. As we drove towards Arusha the whole sky was filled with dust and surrounded by this moonscape with the the statues of dead trees & bush standing guard. The only sign of life was the occasional brightly dressed Massai standing in the wind with his herd in what felt like the middle of nowhere. I was starting to wonder what Arusha would be like...but we are here and it is leafy green. We have landed in a really nice guest house. We were hooked when we arrived, boughtcold beer & pop and settled in to watch the Tour de France. We've had a day of rest and head off on our saffari tomorrow. We'vealready changed currencies and our bank card isn't working. The girls (and Janet) are practicing their math as each US$1 equalsTsh $1300. Life is less expensive so far here in Tanzania with 30 min. internet access for about 80 cents and $1.50 fora 500 ml beer. Mmmm, is beer and internet going to be our constant measurement for daily life? Probably.

Ciao or Kwa heri (Swahili for good-bye)