October 9 - Kathmandu, Nepal

Our first impression of Nepal was “Ahhhhh” - breathing cool mountain air, after sweltering in New Delhi. We eventually found out Kathmandu is actually pretty choked with population and pollution but the initial contrast was startling. Ron is returning to Nepal after about 23 years having backpacked through and trekked the Annapurna Circuit in 1986. He has very fond memories of Thamel, which is the tourist heart of Kathmandu and launching pad for the infinite trekking routes around the country. To him though, it was unrecognizable. Nepal is in deep trouble with crumbling political climate and infrastructure. It seems to be bursting at the seams with no plan. Thamel is so built up it has seemingly lost a lot of its charm. That being said, we still stayed for a full 3 days catching up on our “to do” list (can’t believe we still have one while traveling), relaxing and getting ready for our trek.

We were busy watching the weather as the long range forecast promised rain, rain and more rain. Reluctant to book a trek if the weather was not going to cooperate, we hung out in the rain with our new sporty $2 umbrellas, ate, emailed and researched trekking guides. Thanks to Christin, Beth, Mary and Sabina back in Vancouver, we found Tilak of Himaland Adventure. Tilak proved to be very flexible, offering us a relatively self sufficient trekking option with a suggested route, park permits, insurance and two porters. The weather finally promised to break, so we booked a bus ride to Pokhara on the 9th, starting a 6 day trek on the 10th in the Annapurna Conservation area.

While in Kathmandu, we visited the Shree Mangal DVIP or SMD School and School Director Shirley Blair. SMD School educates children from remote mountain regions who otherwise would not have a chance to attend school. When I say remote, I mean most of the children we met have to take a day long bus ride and then walk for up to one week to reach their home villages. Needless to say, they do not get home very much at all, some stay at the school for years with only a couple of visits to or from home. This concept had a great deal of impact on me. When I asked Shirley about how the children react to their separation from home, she said in a very kind and matter of fact way “most of them are glad to be eating once they get here.” Whoa, reality check for me. Even though we spent just one short afternoon at the school, we felt it is a very happy place providing infinite opportunity and peace for the students. SMD was founded by a Buddhist Monk who still runs it today. About 200 of the 600 plus students are monks. The classrooms are filled with colourful uniforms and monks’ robes. We had two lovely 13 year old girls (studying grade 5 level) give us a tour to every nook and cranny of the school. The children greeted us with smiles and laughter as we introduced ourselves and caught a glimpse into their life. A few students eventually earn scholarships to attend schools overseas; Mulgrave in West Van, BSS and Abbleby in Toronto etc. Given more time, we would have loved to stay in the nearby guest house and volunteered at the school.

After our tour, two students escorted us from the school towards the Bodhnath Stupa (nearby Buddhist Temple) to help us catch a cab. We were still smarting from our Delhi experience with drivers. We learned Shirley’s assistant was not able to come with us because he is Tibetan and the Maoists have been combing the streets, “arresting” Tibetans and putting them in jail. Another reality check. We also learned for safety, students normally do not leave the school at all, even on days off. Having the students with us was unusual and special. Buddhists themselves, they stayed with us to tour the Bodhnath Stupa and answer our questions. It was the first time I (and of course the girls) have seen Buddhist worshipers walking clockwise around a temple, praying and spinning the prayer wheels. It was fascinating and beautiful.

After three days and some serious shopping (look for our new down jackets on the mountain coming soon in January!) we were definitely ready to leave Kathmandu. We made great friends with a local street dog, one that actually invited contact because he had a collar and seemed to be pest free. We called him Scruffy and he greeted us every day as we wandered around. Other than that, we gorged ourselves on baking, good coffee, varied restaurant meals and oh, we also tucked into some serious math sessions for the first time. This was not easy. Some people are born teachers. I don’t think either Ron or I are. And teaching someone in your own family? Yikes. It was tough to get going and there were more than a few frustrated outbursts by all. One of the low points of the trip when we realized what we have ahead of us in order to help the girls have a seamless re entry at school. My hat goes off to all my friends I know who have home schooled and of course to all the teachers I know!